This post is a continuation from Part 1 on How to Embed a Power Line. Lately, we have gone through Step 1: Locate the socket locations, and Step 2: Draw the bleed.
We will now cover:
– Step 3: Case 1: If you dig a short cut in plaster
– Step 3: Case 2: If you are digging a long bleed or any bleed in a hard wall
– Step 4: Thread drivers into their sheaths
– Step 5: Put the sheath in place
– Step 6: Prepare the plaster or coating
– Step 7: Plug the bleed
– Step 8: Prepare the finish
Step 3: Case 1: If you make a short bleed in plaster
– If you have a grinder, cut out the edges of the future bleed (external marks).
– Otherwise, attack directly with the brick chisel and the sledgehammer:
◦ Place the chisel perpendicular to the cut, just on one of the external marks.
◦ Tilt the tool in the direction of the centerline and hit it with the sledgehammer.
– Dig the bottom of the cut with a flat chisel. Afterward, the socket should be covered with at least 5 mm of plaster.
Note: For a vertical bleed, proceed from the top to the bottom.
Step 3: Case 2: If you are digging a long bleed or any bleed in a hard wall
– Connect the biscuit joiner to the vacuum cleaner.
– Adjust the depth of cut of the biscuit joiner to 3 to 4 cm.
– Position the biscuit joiner at the beginning of the cut and follow the line all the way to the end.
– Then break the scrap by levering it with a brick chisel.
– Grind the bottom of the groove with a flat chisel to be able to embed the sheath completely. It must then be covered with at least 5 mm of plaster.
Note: For a vertical recess, progress from top to bottom.
Step 4: Thread the conductors into the sheath
– To thread several conductors into a sheath, strip the ends of the conductors by 5 cm. Twist them together with flat pliers.
– Then fold the braid over itself to form a loop.
– Pull the end of the wire puller that protrudes from the sheath through the loop. Fold it back and roll it on itself in the other direction.
– Coat the ligature with electrician’s tape.
– Pull the wire puller, if necessary after putting on a thick glove (e.g., gardening glove).
– When the conductors come out of the sheath, let them protrude 10 to 15 cm and cut them a little before tying.
– Allow the same length at the entrance of the sheath and cut them off.
Caution: If your conductors have difficulty moving forward in their sheath, there are too many of them or the sheath is too small. As a general rule, a sheath should not be occupied more than one-third of its cross-sectional area.
Step 5: Install the scabbard
– Moisten the bleed with a sponge or brush to ensure that the plaster or filler will adhere.
– Place the sheath at the bottom of the cut and push it out through the embedding boxes if they are already in place.
– Fasten the sheath at intervals of approx. 50 cm with long flat-headed nails. Press them at an angle on both sides of the sleeve.
– Allow the heads of the pins to protrude so that they can be removed more easily later on.
Step 6: Preparing the plaster or filler
– Pour the required volume of water into a small trough.
– Gradually pour the corresponding amount of plaster or rendering into the water while mixing with a trowel.
– Allow standing for the indicated time (usually 5 to 10 minutes).
– As soon as the mixture has reached the required consistency (it “holds” by itself without collapsing), it is ready to be applied.
Good to know: It is also possible to use a ready-to-use filler (paste). But it is more expensive and has a shorter shelf life.
Step 7: Filling the bleed
– Place the trough under the bleed and apply the plaster or render with a 10 or 15 cm wide spatula.
– Move the trough as you go so that it collects any overflows.
Tip: Dampen the trough well by filling the plaster or plaster into the bleed, but do not leave any excess thickness. Smooth the surface of the plaster or filler by using the spatula blade on both sides of the cut.
– In summer or if the room is heated, allow drying for a few hours. If it is cooler, wait until the next day to finish.
Step 8: Preparing the finish
If the plaster or rendering has been smoothed properly, there will be nothing to sand.
If the wall is to be painted, apply a smoothing plaster, and then sand finely.
Thank you for your interest in our new blog posts. Hope Part 1 and Part 2 (this post) would be of some help to you. Remember to leave your comments and share these posts.